The string specifications on this chart are based on Bow Brand Gut harp strings.  I use their “standard” gauge for most modern (post 1935) pedal harps, the “Lever Harp Gut” for Erard Gothic harps, early American harps (L&H, Wurlitzer, late Browne’s etc).  These Lever h...

None. (Yet.)


A strung harp is under a tremendous amount of tension. The wood on an antique harp may not be in any condition to bear this tension. There may be internal damage or warping that is not immediately evident. Stringing the harp at all may cause it to snap. Le...

Buying a harp can be a complex process. In addition to the obvious issue of expense there are questions of longevity and reliability, stylistic preferences, weight and size considerations, and, to the musician, the overriding concerns of sound quality, projection, and...

If the harp under consideration is a new instrument or if it is one with a new soundboard, it will, to some degree, open up and become more responsive with time. However, time and playing will not turn a harp that sounds dead and unresponsive when new into an excellent...

A little homework will greatly increase the odds that the chosen instrument will be satisfactory. The following items may seem elementary to the experienced harpist, but they are all worth considering when choosing a new harp:

 

Size is the first consideration that comes...

A testing sequence that has proven efficient includes:

 

  • Play something familiar on the harp to get an overall impression. Both harpists should do this, and perceptions from both the playing position and the audience position discussed.

  • Check the instrument for...

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